Monday, 29 November 2010

Time for the technical part- The Toile

Now the final design has been chosen, the next step was to toile our garment, see what materials would work best and if the design would actually work out how we wanted.

Subtraction Cutting.

For the top, our chosen innovation cutting technique was subtraction cutting. We thought this was the best approach that would work well in creating the desired outcom
e from the design. As we had already tested out this technique at the beginning of the project, we had a good idea of what to do and
how to go about creating the right effect.

The toile of the top went rather well, we agreed that a light weight material would work best, so we
used a silk jersey. There wasn't any definite problems, the only issue we had was with the placement of our circles, where we placed them affected the back of the top, it was pulled up too much and make the top backless which wasn't the look we were aiming for. So from this toile we knew what to chan
ge for the final garment. This is the same technique we used in the innovation design workshop at the beginning of the project.

Drawing out the front and back pattern.
The front and back pieces on the bagged out material, ready for the negative space to be cut out, which will start the form of the top.
Side view of finished toile.

Back view of finished toile.

Lantern Skirt.

The Pattern for this skirt at first seemed
rather simple and in my mind it created the lantern shape perfectly.
We originally wanted to toile and make the final skirt in
organdy which is a cotton based
organza, this would hold the structure of the skirt and have the sheer effect we wanted. But the fabric stores
that we visited didn't stock our wanted fabric so we had to think o
f an alternative. For the toile we went for a sheer cotton, we were not too sure on how it would wok with the darting an panelling but we went with it. The result wasn't too bad
but it didn't create the fullness we were hoping for. So we decided to re-think our skirt patterns and alternate them so it would add more volume to the waist, creating the defined look which is shown in the design.

We first traced around an original skirt block, added length so the total length was 110cm. To get the darting we cut down one side of the dart to the hip line.
we then measure how big we wanted our dart, mark down the points and stuck the pattern pieces in place, then we did the same for the back and cut out the patterns ready to toile the skirt.

Final toile of the skirt.
The toiling process was very beneficial in helping us find the positives of the design and allowed usto come across any adjustments that would better the final garment.

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