Today I had a class workshop of Subtraction cutting which is apart of my Innovation design brief.
‘Subtraction Cutting’ is an approach to garment pattern making that incorporates chance discovery, distance, gods-eye views, and the ability to cut fast & inaccurately without too much reference to numbers, fractions or mathematics.
Pattern cutting and design are physical activities, they extend from the hand and eye, from rotations of the wrist, elbow & shoulder, but they also flow from the mind and its perception of spatial awareness, from the psychological processes of transferring ideas & concepts into 2Dimentional patterns, which then construct in 3D.
The basic premise of Subtraction Cutting is that the patterns cut do not represent the garments outward shape, but rather the negative spaces within the garment that make them hollow. Simply put, shaped holes cut from huge sheets of cloth through which the body moves.
I have researched into who found this interesting technique, his name is Julian Roberts. He is a womenswear designer and a visiting University lecturer all over the country and around the world. He also set up the new fashion school at the University of Hertfordshire.
I really enjoyed using this technique it was a lot more interesting than classic pattern cutting because you couldn't predict the final outcome, it was all about chance and it all rested on where you placed the front and back bodice and the position of the hip circles. Another reason why I like it is because each dress comes out unique.
We had to work as a group, and we each all said how much we enjoyed it and we each would happily use this technique in the future.
These are some of the final outcomes from using the subtraction cutting technique.