Time for the technical part- The Toile

Now the final design has been chosen, the next step was to toile our garment, see what materials would work best and if the design would actually work out how we wanted.

Subtraction Cutting.

For the top, our chosen innovation cutting technique was subtraction cutting. We thought this was the best approach that would work well in creating the desired outcom

e from the design. As we had already tested out this technique at the beginning of the project, we had a good idea of what to do and

how to go about creating the right effect.

The toile of the top went rather well, we agreed that a light weight material would work best, so we

used a silk jersey. There wasn't any definite problems, the only issue we had was with the placement of our circles, where we placed them affected the back of the top, it was pulled up too much and make the top backless which wasn't the look we were aiming for. So from this toile we knew what to chan

ge for the final garment. This is the same technique we used in the innovation design workshop at the beginning of the project.

Drawing out the front and back pattern.

The front and back pieces on the bagged out material, ready for the negative space to be cut out, which will start the form of the top.

Side view of finished toile.

Back view of finished toile.

Lantern Skirt.

The Pattern for this skirt at first seemed

rather simple and in my mind it created the lantern shape perfectly.

We originally wanted to toile and make the final skirt in

organdy which is a cotton based

organza, this would hold the structure of the skirt and have the sheer effect we wanted. But the fabric stores

that we visited didn't stock our wanted fabric so we had to think o

f an alternative. For the toile we went for a sheer cotton, we were not too sure on how it would wok with the darting an panelling but we went with it. The result wasn't too bad

but it didn't create the fullness we were hoping for. So we decided to re-think our skirt patterns and alternate them so it would add more volume to the waist, creating the defined look which is shown in the design.

We first traced around an original skirt block, added length so the total length was 110cm. To get the darting we cut down one side of the dart to the hip line.

we then measure how big we wanted our dart, mark down the points and stuck the pattern pieces in place, then we did the same for the back and cut out the patterns ready to toile the skirt.

Final toile of the skirt.

The toiling process was very beneficial in helping us find the positives of the design and allowed usto come across any adjustments that would better the final garment.

Variations of the final chosen design.

These are some variations of our chosen design, I was trying to design the top in as many different ways but with using the subtraction cutting technique we cant get a definite design,so I have just sketched out possible ideas.We are going to have to see what will be the final outcome on the day.

3 is a magic number....

As a section of my project is producing a final garment as a three person group, I have been working with Amy Holden and Dean Fallon. We have been trying out different techniques of innovation cutting and have decided to use one of them for the production of our final chosen design.

We decided on using the lantern skirt from my collection and a top design from Amy's collection, we are going to use darting and panelling for the skirt and the subtraction technique to produce the top. Being a three man team we have all had an input on the final design, material we are going to use and a final photo shoot of our finished outfit.

Our next step is to make our patterns and toile our chosen design, we aim to work out what parts will work and if we need to re think some areas.


Amyholden.blogspot.com
Deanfallon.blogspot.com

Design Pages.

My final collection.

Made up of contemporary feminine designs, looking at flattering silhouettes, modern fabrics and keeping the garments within my concept of penetrative light and producing sensory garments through a completely transparent collection.

Philips- SKIN Dress.

''One of this year’s Probe project areas is SKIN, which examines the future integration of sensitive materials in the area of emotional sensing – the shift from ‘ intelligent’ to ‘sensitive’ products and technologies.

As part of SKIN, we have developed two ‘Soft Technology’ outfits to identify the future for high tech materials and Electronic Textile Development in the area’s of skin and emotional sensing.

The dresses show emotive technology and how the body and the near environment can use pattern and color change to interact and predict the emotional state''

http://www.design.philips.com/probes/projects/dresses/index.page

When I across this project by Philips I thought back to the Rosegaarde dress. They are both similar in the way they are innovation designed dresses and they are sensitive to the body and skin.

Taiwan Lantern Festival

Development Pages

These are my development pages. I have taken sections of research from my concept pages and added notes describing on how I got my final designs from my original research and concept. All my designs are based around penetrative light, so my garments are completely transparent. I wanted to create a sensory garment and with my concept being light I thought this would be the best way to translate this.

Studio Roosegaarde 4.0

As I want to look into transparent and see through garments I decided to google 'transparent',I wanted to see if anything interesting w

ould show up from this search. From this I successfully found Studio Roosegaarde, it is the home of artist Daan Roosegaarde and other designers & engineers. They design interactive landscapes that instinctively respond to sound and movement, He likes to explore the dawn of a new nature that is evolving from technological innovations. In 2009 he ventured into a fashion project called '

Intimacy'; the Intimacy dress becomes transparent when someone approaches the wearer. Made in electrically-sensitive foils, which become transparent depending on change in intensity of the current

''Intimacy is a fashion project about the relation between intimacy and technology. Its high-tech garments 'Intimacy White' and 'Intimacy Black' are made out of interactive technologies and smart e-foils which become transparent based

on personal interactions.

Here social interactions determine the level of transparency; creating a sensual play of disclosure.''

The images I found of this garment are really unique, they have a sporty yet edgy appeal to them. For me this is a good artist to look at in relation to transparent materials and the use of light.

Title: Intimacy

Direct link: www.studioroosegaarde.net/project/Intimacy

2010, Rotterdam, NL.

Client:

Self Commissioned by Studio Roosegaarde

Specs:

Smart foils, wireless technologies, electronics, LEDs, copper and other media.

Artist:

Daan Roosegaarde

Atton Conrad

London photographer Atton Conrad captured these images by using nude models with dresses manufactured from light graffiti. The light creates a dramatic sense of movement, and a really unique style.

There is also the idea of transparency and garments being see through, I really l would really like to design a collection of completely transparent garments which will tie in with my concept around penetrative light.

Penetrative Light....

These are photographs I have taken myself, simply using a bed, a friend and a light weight fabric (which is my personal throw). I got her to jump up and down on my bed, creating different shapes with the fabric which then captured on my camera.

Movement

Moving Forward.....

From my initial research the Sam Taylor Wood imagery has been favourite, I enjoy how she is exploring the notions of gravity and falling and the overall simplicity of the picture is what also attracts me. I wanted to contrast the idea of gravity by researching into stars, the ones we see in the Earth's atmosphere.(which is zero gravity) I found the scientific fact on how we see a star twinkle most intriguing, the whole conception of the star moving when really its the atmosphere moving causing the travelling light to reflect.

so my concept concentrates on movement and penetrative light.

Twinkle,twinkle little star.....

Why I chose stars- I have and always will love stars, they remind me of dreams and wishes, and when I was younger I used to have glow in the dark stars on my ceiling, they were my favourite thing at the time, any form of light has always been like a comfort to me whether its fairy lights or candles. They have so much potential in changing moods and peoples feelings.

Stars have so much more to them that meets the eye, If you look at the stars on a clear night, we see them twinkle. Twinkling of stars is caused by movements in Earth's atmosphere. Starlight enters the atmosphere as straight rays. Twinkling occurs because air movements constantly change the path of the light as it comes through the air.

Sagittarius star cloud.

I love the clustering and colours on this image.This picture has been taken through a NASA microscope. I find the stars resemble flickers of metal or glass all reflecting of light.

I have always loved starring into the sky at night, especially on a clear summers night you can see so much more and the clarity is amazing. I find it astounding how much they light up and crowd the sky,through researc

hing stars I have seen some very interesting shapes be created.

These are some of my favoured images.

Sombrero Galaxy.

When I first saw this image I didn't believe it was real. The clarity and definition is beautiful. As all of these images have been taken through scientific microscopes it really allows the viewer to see the depth and complete form of how a star looks and how different each star is.

Galaxies NGC & IC2163

This image reminds me of water going down a plug hole. The spiralling clusters of stars really make it look like the image is moving. This creates a good idea for manipulating fabric.

Globular Cluster.

This cluster of stars really shows just how many stars in the sky there is. Billions.... it reminds me of jewels and crystals reflecting of each other producing different colours from doing that. This has given me an intriguing idea of using lights and seeing how they reflect of each other.

stars

My favourite form of light..........

STARS

A star is a huge, shining ball in space that produces a tremendous amount of light and other forms of energy. The sun is a star, and it supplies Earth with light and heat energy. The stars look like twinkling points of light -- except for the sun. The sun looks like a ball because it is much closer to Earth than any other star.

http://www.nasa.gov/worldbook/star_worldbook.html

Initial Ideas!

a few concept ideas.......

LIGHT

We see light as a form of communication everywhere we go, it has many meanings, feelings, symbols and emotions from happiness, romance, sadness, and

danger. These figures are used in everyday life without us even noticing, they become

apart of our lifestyle in the simplest of things like, traffic li

ghts, a light in a room, candles on a cake, the sun, and stars in the sky. Sometimes we don't even realise how much light is needed and how much it affects the way we live.I have a strong fondness for lights, they always bring a sense of warmth to everything and really help create a feeling and mood.